INSIDE: In this special edition, I've got some exciting news to share…
Remember my Success Manuals series? Well, I've been working hard these last few weeks on the next installment. After the releases of Knitting Habits and Crochet Habits, I'm excited to introduce the third manual:
Yarn Habits! This manual is dedicated to helping you unlock the full potential of our craft's most essential component. As I've written in the opening chapter:
“Yarn. Our craft’s building block, how we express our creativity, and sometimes, the bane of our existence when it tangles!”
Just like its predecessors, I want this manual to be super valuable for you, my members. And that's where you come in!
I'm excited to offer you an exclusive preview of the "Yarn Weights & Categories" chapter. While it's still a draft, I'm eager to hear your thoughts.
Please leave a comment, hit reply, or email me: jodie@yarnbay.org with your feedback. To show my gratitude, I'll give you a complimentary month of membership, credit in the acknowledgements, and of course, a complimentary copy of the finished Success Manual!
Excerpt From The Yarn Habits Success Manual
Chapter 2: Yarn Weights & Categories
Weighing Your Options
One of the most crucial skills you need is understanding yarn weights.
The standardized yarn weight system, developed by the Craft Yarn Council, categorizes yarns into seven categories, from the finest lace weight to the chunkiest jumbo. Each category has a number (0-7) and a name, making it easier for crafters to choose the right yarn for their projects.
But why does yarn weight matter so much? Well…
The weight of your yarn affects:
Gauge and tension: heavier yarns create larger stitches, while finer yarns create smaller ones.So it's crucial to check your gauge, especially when substituting weights!
Drape: lighter yarns create a fabric with more drape, while heavier yarns create a stiffer fabric.
Warmth: heavier weights create warmer fabrics. So you'll see chunky and bulky yarns recommended for winter wear.
Project time: heavier weights work up more quickly than finer yarns. If you're short on time, choosing a heavier weight can help you finish faster.
Stitch definition: lighter weights often show off intricate stitches better, while heavier yarns are great for texture.
So, here are the categories! But first… What if you have a yarn you don’t know the weight of, or you’ve lost the label?
This is where you can use the WPI (Wraps Per Inch) method. Here’s how:
Wrap the yarn around a ruler for 1 inch, not overlapping.
Count the wraps and compare to the WPI numbers for each category (listed below.)
You can also compare the strand of the mystery yarn to others you know the weight of to see which it matches best.
Now, let’s go into each of the categories in detail.
Category 0: Lace
The finest of them all: perfect for creating delicate shawls, doilies, and intricate lace. When I first attempted a lace weight shawl, it was a humbling experience! Despite its challenges, the results are stunning.
AKA: Thread, Cobweb
Wraps per inch (WPI): 30-40+
Knitting gauge: 33-40 stitches per 4 inches
Crochet gauge: 32-42 double crochets per 4 inches
Recommended needle size: 1.5-2.25mm (US 000-1)
Recommended hook size: 1.6-1.4mm (Steel 6, 7, 8)
Pros
Creates delicate fabric
Excellent for intricate designs
Lightweight and airy
Cons
Difficult to work with, especially for beginners
Projects take longer to complete
Mistakes are more noticeable
Category 1: Super Fine
A favorite among sock knitters and it's also great for baby items and lightweight garments. I adore using this weight for shawls. The drape is unbeatable!
AKA: Fingering, Sock, Baby
WPI: 14-30
Knitting gauge: 27-32 stitches per 4 inches
Crochet gauge: 21-32 single crochets per 4 inches
Recommended needle size: 2.25-3.25mm (US 1-3)
Recommended hook size: 2.25-3.5mm (B-1 to E-4)
Pros
Perfect for warm weather items
Cons
May be too delicate for high-wear items
Category 2: Fine
Fine weight yarn is versatile, and it's my go-to for lightweight sweaters and cardigans. The fabric it creates isn't too heavy, not too light. Perfect for year-round wear.
AKA: Sport, Baby
WPI: 12-18
Knitting gauge: 23-26 stitches per 4 inches
Crochet gauge: 16-20 single crochets per 4 inches
Recommended needle size: 3.25-3.75mm (US 3-5)
Recommended hook size: 3.5-4.5mm (E-4 to 7)
Pros
Balances between detail and speed
Good for layering pieces
Cons:
Split more easily than heavier weights
May not be warm enough for cold weather garments
Category 3: Light
DK weight isn’t too heavy, not too light, making it perfect for a wide range of projects. I find it great for colorwork. Great stitch definition for intricate patterns without being too bulky.
AKA: DK (Double Knit), Light Worsted
WPI: 11-15
Knitting gauge: 21-24 stitches per 4 inches
Crochet gauge: 12-17 double crochets per 4 inches
Recommended needle size: 3.75-4.5mm (US 5-7)
Recommended hook size: 4.5-5.5mm (7 to I-9)
Pros
Works up faster than finer weights
Great stitch definition for texture
Cons
May be too warm for some summer garments
Not as warm as heavier weights for winter wear
Category 4: Medium
Often considered the "standard" yarn weight, and for good reason. It's versatile, easy to work with, and creates a fabric that's perfect for everything from sweaters to afghans. Beginners should always start with worsted weight yarn.
AKA: Worsted, Aran
WPI: 9-12
Knitting gauge: 16-20 stitches per 4 inches
Crochet gauge: 11-14 double crochets per 4 inches
Recommended needle size: 4.5-5.5mm (US 7-9)
Recommended hook size: 5.5-6.5mm (I-9 to K-10½)
Pros
Easy to work with
Creates a sturdy, warm fabric
Cons
Can be too warm for summer garments
May not have the delicate drape of lighter weights
Category 5: Bulky
A favorite for quick projects and warm, cozy garments. I love using it for winter accessories like hats and scarves.
AKA: Chunky, Craft, Rug
WPI: 6-9
Knitting gauge: 12-15 stitches per 4 inches
Crochet gauge: 8-11 double crochets per 4 inches
Recommended needle size: 5.5-8mm (US 9-11)
Recommended hook size: 6.5-9mm (K-10½ to M-13)
Pros
It work up so quickly, it's instant gratification!
Great for home decor items
Cons
Can be too warm for some garments
May be too bulky for detailed stitch patterns
Category 6: Super Bulky
It works up quickly and creates a thick, warm fabric. I once knitted a blanket with super bulky yarn in a single weekend. Talk about a satisfying project!
AKA: Roving
WPI: 5-6
Knitting gauge: 7-11 stitches per 4 inches
Crochet gauge: 5-9 double crochets per 4 inches
Recommended needle size: 8-12.75mm (US 11-17)
Recommended hook size: 9-15mm (M-13 to Q)
Pros
Great for statement pieces and texture
Cons
Can be overwhelming in garments
Limited stitch pattern options because of bulk
Category 7: Jumbo
Perfect for extreme knitting and crochet, and arm knitting. Not my usual choice, but working with it occasionally is fun!
WPI: 1-4
Knitting gauge: 6 stitches or fewer per 4 inches
Crochet gauge: 1-5 single crochets per 4 inches
Recommended needle size: 12.75mm+ (US 17 and larger)
Recommended hook size: 15mm+ (Q and larger)
Pros
Great for bold, statement pieces
Cons
Limited use in everyday projects
Can be challenging to handle
Often expensive per project because of the amount needed
Eyelash, ribbon, or other textured yarns rarely fit into weight categories. When working with these:
Look at the label for recommended hook or needle sizes.
Consider holding them together with a plain yarn of known weight.
Always make a gauge swatch, as novelty yarns can behave unpredictably.
Don't be afraid to experiment with different weights to see what you like best!
What's your opinion? Suggestions for the Yarn Habits Success Manual?
Leave a comment, hit reply, or email me at jodie@yarnbay.org with any suggestions for additions or improvements.
As a bonus for your feedback, you'll receive a complimentary month's membership, recognition in the acknowledgements, and a complimentary copy of the Success Manual!
Before you go…
Jodie, Thanks for sharing your work in progress. I think it is very useful and clearly delineates the weights of yarn, and their uses, needle sizes, etc. I would love to see some guidelines or suggestions on yarn catagories/weights when you hold 2 or three strands together. For example, 2 lace weight = fingering? Also, maybe some more amplification on those "mystery skeins" without a ball band and determining fiber content. Or another resource to consult if this isn't something you are going to delve into. I'm a new reader and am really enjoying your content. Thanks.
Thank you for sharing this preview of the manual Jodie! I learned something new here, I had no clue what WPI meant or how to measure it 🤯